• Aural (ear) Hematoma
• Inflammatory Bowel Disease
• Tick Fever
• Hip Dysplasia
• Reptiles and Salmonella
• Valley Fever
• Dental Disease
• Congestive Heart Disease
• Carnassial Tooth Abscess
• Spay and Neuter Considerations
• Heartworm Disease
• Otitis Externa
• Ear Mite Infestation
• Exotic Newcastle Disease
• Elimination Problem in Cats
• Sonoran Desert Tortoises
• Toxic Plant List

Bloody fluid accumulates within the potential space of the pinna (ear flap) when a dog or cat vigorously shakes the head or incurs direct trauma to the ear. The resultant 'pin cushion' swelling is bothersome and drives continued scratching and shaking.

Direct examination of the ear canal and cytology of debris may uncover the reason(s) for head-shaking. Leading causes are ear mites, bacterial and/or fungal infection, foreign body (i.e.: foxtail), allergic reaction, and tumor formation. Both ears are fully evaluated and treated appropriately.

The surgical reduction of the hematoma is performed while the animal is anesthetized. An incision is made over the swelling, the fluid removed, and mattress sutures are placed to bring both sides of the pinna into apposition (creating 'spot welds'). Bandage placement, systemic antibiotics, and treatment of underlying problems within the ear canal round out the medical course. Sutures are typically removed at 3 weeks.

IBD in the dog or cat is an inflammatory process of the small and/or large bowel resulting in diverse clinical signs such as vomiting, diarrhea, and weight loss. Current understanding suggests these underlying causes: food allergies, hypersensitivity to Gl parasites, bacterial overgrowth, tumor formation, and other immunologic forces. Inflammation within the tissues lining the gut sets the stage for fluid and protein loss which over time sees loss of weight and condition.

Diagnosis is made through endoscopic biopsy of the stomach, small intestine, and large bowel. Evaluation of tissues from these affected sites helps to define IBD and to rule out other causes for chronic vomiting/diarrhea.

Treatment of IBD is medical and involves the long-term use of antibiotics, anti-inflammatory medication, and dietary manipulation. There is not a cure for this disease but rather efforts are directed towards managing the animal and reducing medications to the least amount required to maintain remission.

Canine Ehrlichiosis, or Tick Fever, is a common disease of dogs. This tick-borne disease occurs wherever the Brown Dog Tick (Rhipicephales sanguineus) is found. The cause of tick fever is a rickettsia (Ehrlichia canis) which is transmitted when the tick feeds on an infected dog and then later feeds on a healthy dog. The incubation period of this disease in the newly infected dog is 7-21 days.

The symptoms of tick fever depend on the phase of the disease. In the acute phase, a dog can display any of the following non-specific signs:

1. Fever
2. Listlessness
3. Poor appetite
4. Enlarged lymph nodes
5. Nasal discharge
6. Cloudy corneas (eyes)

In the chronic phase of the disease, these same symptoms can occur along with periodic nose bleeds, swollen limbs, joint pain, blood in the urine, and weight loss. All of these symptoms occur due to the destruction of red blood cells, platelets and white blood cells.

The diagnosis of tick fever is confirmed by a combination of clinical signs and blood work indicating a low platelet count (thrombocytopenia), low white blood cell count (leukopenia) and a low red blood cell count (anemia). A positive antibody titer test also aides in the confirmation of this disease.

Treatment of tick fever depends on the presenting symptoms of the animal. Doxycycline or Tetracycline are the drugs of choice for treating either phase of the disease which usually responds well to these antibodies. However, treatment may need to be continued for several months. Occasionally, patients presenting with more serious symptoms require hospitalization, intravenous fluid therapy and possibly a blood transfusion. This disease can be fatal if not treated appropriately and the length of therapy is based on repeated blood tests.

Tick control is the most effective way of staying ahead of this disease. Topical and/or systemic tick control products for your dog as well as environmental controls in your home and outdoors will aide your pet in staying healthy.

Hip dysplasia is an abnormal growth of the hip joint, usually affecting both hips. Varying degrees of laxity of surrounding soft tissue and malformation of the femoral head and acetabulum lead to hip joint instability with subsequent arthritis and chronic pain. Hip dysplasia is most common in large breed dogs, although it may also be seen in the smaller breeds and cats.

Clinical signs of hip dysplasia vary with the age of the dog. There are two typical clinical groups of affected dogs; those between 4 and 12 months of age and those over 15 months of age with chronic disease. Puppies affected with hip dysplasia frequently demonstrate reduced activity, hind limb lameness, gait abnormalities and pain. Older dogs with chronic disease will often show a very slow onset of decreased activity, difficulty in rising, jumping, walking up hill and/or upstairs. Atrophy of the hind limb musculature is also common.

Diagnosis of hip dysplasia is based upon clinical signs, orthopedic physical exam and pelvic radiographs. Since these dogs are often painful and difficult to handle, sedation and/or anesthesia prior to radiography is often necessary.

Treatment of hip dysplasia is accomplished medically or surgically or a combination of both. Treatment options depend upon the severity of the disease, activity level and age of the animal and the resulting degenerative changes of the hip joint. Medical management optimizes the affected animal's body weight and conditioning. The usage of condroprotective agents (cartilage sparing drugs) such as glucosamine and chondroitin sulphate, are helpful in reducing some of the symptoms of the disease. Non-steroidal, anti-inflammatory medications such as aspirin, rimadyl and adaquin, can also be effective in reducing signs of the disease.

If or when medical management fails, there are a number of surgical options to improve the hip joint function of the animal. Triple pelvic osteotomy (TPO) is reserved for young dogs with mild to moderate disease and minimal degenerative changes to the hip joint. In this procedure, the pelvis is resected in three locations and the acetabulum is rotated to afford better joint alignment and stability.

Total hip replacement is a surgical option for chronically affected, mature dogs. This procedure provides excellent return of function and a normal quality of life even in the most severe cases of hip dysplasia.

Femoral head and neck excision is a salvage procedure used on those animals with advanced degenerative joint disease and pain. The primary objective of this approach is to remove the femoral head from the hip joint to relieve the animal's pain. Although these dogs have reduced hip pain, they have an altered gait pattern as a result of this surgery.

Since there are many factors contributing to hip dysplasia, prevention centers on not breeding affected animals. The Orthopedic Foundation for Animals (OFA) has set up a hip dysplasia registry to facilitate not propagating this disease. OFA grades the hips of breeding dogs based upon the veterinarian's radiographs. OFA's grading system is: Excellent, Good, Fair, Borderline, Mild, Moderate or Severe. It is recommended that only excellent or good rated dogs be bred.

Various environmental factors such as over nutrition may affect the expression of this disease. Therefore, we recommend that at-risk puppies be fed a quality adult maintenance dog food as opposed to puppy food.

Most if not all reptiles carry Salmonella bacteria in their intestinal tract. Even healthy appearing reptiles can be carriers and may shed this bacteria in their feces. Salmonella bacteria can cause serious disease in humans even though it does not generally cause disease in reptiles.

Humans are most commonly infected by ingestion of the bacteria due to improper hygiene following the handling of reptiles or objects they frequently come in contact with (i.e. bedding, substrate, food/water dishes, cages, plants, etc.).

Unlike other pets, just petting the reptile can result in transmission of the bacteria because of the way reptiles are housed. Fecal material may be present anywhere on a reptile's body and a person handling them, without washing their hands immediately afterward, could become infected as they put their hands in their mouths, eat, drink or smoke.

Most Salmonella infections result in self-limiting illness characterized by diarrhea, fever and abdominal cramping. However, the infection can spread to other organ systems, leading to severe and sometimes fatal illness. These severe infections are more likely to occur in infants and those individuals with compromised immune systems. Unfortunately, Salmonella bacteria cannot be eliminated from the intestinal tract of reptiles. Attempts to do so through the use of prophylactic antibiotic administration has been unsuccessful and may result in the emergence of resistant strains of Salmonella bacteria. Attempts to raise or identify Salmonella free reptiles has also been unsuccessful. The use of fecal cultures is not beneficial because this bacteria can lie latent (undiagnosed) in the animal.

Fortunately the spread of Salmonella bacteria from reptiles to humans can be easily prevented by following these precautions recommended by the Association of Reptile and Amphibian Veterinarians (ARAV):

1. Always wash your hands with hot, soapy water immediately after handling reptiles, their cages, equipment, etc.
2. Do not allow reptiles to have access to the kitchen, dining room or any other food preparation areas. Also, do not allow reptiles to have access to bathroom sinks or tubs.
3. Do not allow reptiles to have free roam of your home. If necessary, limit them to very specific areas of the house.
4. Do not eat, drink or smoke while handling reptiles, cages, equipment, etc.
5. Do not kiss reptiles or share food or drink with them.
6. Do not use kitchen sinks, counters, bathroom sinks or bathtubs to bathe reptiles or to wash cages, aquariums or other equipment. Reptile owners should purchase a plastic basin in which to exercise or bathe their pets and to clean their equipment. Waste water should be disposed of in the toilet.

In addition, the ARAV and Center for Disease Control (CDC) recommend that children less than 5 years old avoid contact with reptiles and households with children less than 5 years old not own reptiles. If children do have an opportunity to handle a reptile, they should be closely supervised and wash their hands thoroughly afterward. Immunocompromised persons should also avoid contact with reptiles.

Following these guidelines will aid in decreasing the likelihood of passing the Salmonella bacteria from reptiles to humans and all reptiles should be regarded as having the bacteria.

If problems or questions arise, please consult your reptile's veterinarian or your physician.

Valley Fever, properly called Coccidioidomycosis, is typically caused by inhalation of infectious arthrospores of the soil fungus Coccidioides immitis. Once inside the body, the spores form spherules that release hundreds of endospores into the surrounding tissues. Valley Fever was first reported in animals in 1940. Areas endemic for Valley Fever include Arizona, New Mexico, Nevada, Utah, California and Texas as well as Mexico and Central America. Humans and animals can be infected especially when hot, dry conditions favorable to inhalation of arthrospores exist. The disease is not spread from animal to animal or from animal to human.

There are three forms of the disease:

1. The most common is the self-limiting form. Most animals in the southwestern United States have been exposed to and have eliminated the disease prior to becoming seriously ill.
2. The veterinarian most often sees the pulmonary form of the disease.
3. When the microscopic endospores enter the blood stream and travel elsewhere in the body, the extrapulmonary disseminated form of the disease occurs.

Clinical signs of Valley Fever vary with the form present:

1. Animals with self-limiting Valley Fever are usually asymptomatic.
2. Cough, low-grade fever, anorexia and malaise characterize the pulmonary form of the disease. These dogs are often described as "not quite right".
3. Clinical signs associated with the extrapulmonary disseminated form vary with the organ system affected. Most often seen are bone infections which cause limping. Central nervous system involvement results in seizures and other nervous system signs. Rarely skin is affected and draining tracts are seen. Other systems may be affected as well.

Diagnosis of Valley Fever is based upon history, clinical signs, x-rays and blood tests for the antibodies to the organism causing the disease. Coughing dogs most often receive a chest x-ray and the Valley Fever blood test. Animals with limps are x-rayed and if lesions attributable to Valley Fever are seen, the blood test is also performed. Any dog that has a seizure should be tested for Valley Fever.

Valley Fever Treatment

Valley Fever is a chronic disease and usually requires months to years of treatment. In addition, periodic blood tests and radiographs are necessary to monitor response to treatment. Depending on the severity of the disease, blood tests and radiographs are repeated every four to six months. It is important to note that the clinical signs of Valley Fever disappear long before the fungus that causes the disease leaves the body. If treatment is discontinued too soon, relapse does occur. Treatment should only be discontinued on the advice of the veterinarian based upon negative blood titers.

Treatment

Several drugs and combinations of drugs are used to treat Valley Fever depending upon the severity of disease and size of the patient. All of the drugs used to treat Valley Fever are expensive and are available from several sources.

• Nizoral (ketoconazole) is the most common drug used to treat Valley Fever. Nizoral is always given twice per day, approximately twelve hours apart. The most common side effect related to Nizoral is decreased appetite and upset stomach. If these signs occur, contact the veterinarian.
• Sporinox (itraconazole) comes in a 100-mg capsule. It is used when patients fail to respond to Nizoral or in more severe infections. Because it does not cause decreased appetite and stomach upset, it is used in dogs that do not tolerate Nizoral. Sporinox is either given once or twice a day.
• Diflucan (fluconazole) is the most expensive (and most effective) drug used to treat Valley Fever. Due to cost, its use is reserved for the most severe infections. Diflucan is given either two or three times per day.
• Amphotericin B is an injectable drug that is given every other day in the hospital for up to twelve treatments. This drug is reserved for the serious extrapulmonary disseminated form of the disease.

Monitoring

1. Valley Fever Blood tests are used to chart progression of the disease. Levels of antibody (specific proteins that fight infection) are measured. In general, increasing titers are bad and decreasing titers are good. The Valley Fever titer is used to determine when and if it is safe to discontinue therapy.
2. Blood levels of the drugs used to treat Valley Fever are necessary if response to treatment is not satisfactory.
3. Radiographs allow us to monitor the progress of specific Valley Fever lesions in the lungs or bones.

The last premolar tooth of the upper jaw (carnassial tooth) frequently becomes infected. This tooth has 3 long roots and when infected, extends into the surrounding bone, breaks through the skin, and appears as a small, draining wound below the eye.

Facial injuries may also cause carnassial tooth infections.

Important Points in Treatment

1. Extraction of the affected tooth usually is necessary to allow drainage and prevent recurrence of infection. General anesthesia is necessary, as triple-rooted teeth are difficult to remove and often require splitting before extraction.
2. Diet: Soft foods should be fed for a given number of days as directed by your veterinarian.
3. Remove all chew sticks, bones and other chewable toys for a given number of days as directed by your veterinarian.
4. Give medication(s) as needed.

Notify the doctor if any of the following occur:

• Your pet bleeds from the mouth
• Your pet is reluctant or unable to eat
• You cannot give medication(s) as directed
• There is a change in your pet's general health

]

More than 85% of dogs and cats over 4 years old have some form of dental disease. In the early stages of dental disease, plaque, which is composed of bacteria, salivary proteins and food debris, builds up in the grooves between teeth and gums causing irritation, redness, and swelling of the gums (gingivitis). As this plaque accumulation continues, it hardens and adheres to the teeth (calculus), causing gum recession and deep pockets around the tissues that hold the teeth in place (periodontal disease).

At this advanced stage, bacteria from an oral infection have a clear path to the animal's blood stream and vital organs. Those organ systems with the highest blood flow are the most susceptible to infections from these bacteria. Organs such as the heart, kidneys, liver and lungs can be damaged by these bacteria and may shorten the life of your pet.

Some signs and symptoms that may indicate your pet has dental disease include:

1. Bad breath (Usually the first sign)
2. A hard, yellow-brown crust on the teeth
3. Red, swollen, bleeding gums
4. Difficulty eating or decreased appetite
5. Loose, broken or missing teeth

If you observe any of these problems, your pet should be seen by one of our veterinarians for a complete dental evaluation. Routine dental exams and professional cleaning can help prevent serious health problems for your pet.

Prevention of dental disease is possible by following these simple steps at home.

1. Feed your pet mainly hard or coarse-textured foods
2. Promote chewing of rawhide, rubber or hard nylon toys designed for dental care
3. Schedule routine brushing of your pet's teeth with pet specific tooth pastes and brushes

Remember, prevention starts with you! Your pet's overall health will reflect it.

Congestive heart disease occurs when the heart does not pump blood efficiently enough to circulate and meet body needs.

Pets with congestive heart disease generally are short of breath, tire easily and frequently cough. They may loose weight or accumulate fluid into the lungs, chest cavity or abdomen. Often their gums and tongue appear pale or bluish.

Congestive heart disease may be caused by a defective heart valve, heart muscle degeneration, hypertension, heartworm disease or heart defects present at birth.

Though congestive heart disease cannot be cured, medical management will often allow pets to live a comfortable life and slow the progression of heart disease, thus preventing life-threatening heart failure.

Important Points in Treatment

1. Treatment is aimed at removing accumulated fluids, improving the heart's pumping efficiency, and decreasing the heart's workload.
2. Radiographs (x-rays), electrocardiograms (EKG) and echocardiography are used to diagnose the condition and monitor the response to treatment.
3. Give all medications as directed. Call the doctor if you cannot give the medication.
4. Diet: A low-sodium diet is helpful in controlling congestive heart failure.

Notify the Doctor if Any of the Following Occur:

• Your pet continues to cough
• Your pet's signs tend to worsen
• Your pet passes out or has seizures
• Your pet vomits, has diarrhea or stops eating

What is a Spay?

A spay (the common term for ovariohysterectomy) is the surgical removal of the ovaries and the uterus. This procedure is performed using sterile techniques while the animal is under general anesthesia. An incision is made in the abdomen and both ovaries and the uterus are removed. Typically, the surgery is performed in the morning and the animal goes home in the afternoon. The recovery period is usually brief. Minor soreness may last a few days, but the animal quickly returns to normal. We recommend, however, that the pet's activity be limited for the first week, allowing time for the incision to heal.

What is a Neuter?

A neuter (the common tern for castration) is the surgical removal of the testicles. This procedure is performed using sterile techniques while the animal is under general anesthesia. Both testicles are removed from a single incision just in front of the scrotum. Typically, the surgery is performed in the morning and the animal goes home in the afternoon. The recovery period is usually brief. Minor soreness may last a few days, but the animal quickly returns to normal. We recommend, however, that the pet's activity be limited for the first week, allowing time for the incision to heal.

 

Why Should I Spay or Neuter My Pet?

Spayed and neutered animals generally lead healthier, longer lives with fewer behavioral problems. Uterine infections, mammary cancer, and other types of tumors that commonly occur in the unsprayed older female can be almost completely eliminated by spaying. Also, there will be no more annoying heat periods and the risks and costs associated with problem pregnancies and birth can be avoided. Similarly, in males, the incidence of prostate problems, tumors, and certain types of cancer can be greatly reduced by neutering your pet.

In both males and females, the spayed/neutered pet has a much lower tendency to roam, fight and/or show aggression toward people and other animals. These animals are more likely to stay home, avoiding disasters such as being hit by a car, getting lost or being poisoned.

When Should I Spay or Neuter My Pet?

Traditionally, the recommendation for spaying and neutering has been about six months of age. In recent years, however, there has been a move toward early (8 to 16 weeks of age) spay and neuter throughout the humane societies and animal shelters of the United States. The reason for this is to reduce the number of unwanted animals. Research has shown no detrimental effects of early age sterilization, and the American Veterinary Medical Association supports the idea. Veterinarians who are experienced in the early age sterilization procedures find the surgeries to be much easier to perform with fewer complications and a much shorter recovery period for the animal. Long-term benefits are no different in the animal that is spayed or neutered at 8 weeks or at 6 months of age. Regardless of the age of your pet, it is (almost) never too late to spay or neuter!

What Is Heartworm Disease?

Heartworm is a serious and potentially life-threatening disease that is transmitted by mosquitoes. When a mosquito bites an infected dog, it picks up immature forms of heartworms (called microfilaria), which can then be transmitted to other dogs by the mosquito. Once the microfilaria is in the dog's bloodstream, they mature into adult heartworms that live in the right side of the heart and the large blood vessels going to the lungs. The presence of these worms can impair circulation and cause damage to the heart, lungs, liver, and kidneys. Without treatment, this can lead to heart failure and death.

Do We Have Heartworm In Arizona?

The incidence of heartworm in Arizona is low, but increasing. There have been more than 600 cases of heartworm reported in Arizona in the last 4 years, and most of these cases have been in dogs that have never been outside Arizona. As infected dogs move into our area and as our mosquito population grows, so does the risk of heartworm infection.

What Happens If My Dog Gets Heartworm?

Heartworm disease can often go undetected, especially in animals that have mild signs of infection. Common signs include frequent coughing, labored breathing, and listlessness. The best way to detect heartworm infection is with a simple blood test. Most dogs with heartworm can be treated but the treatment can be prolonged, expensive and carry serious risk to the infected dog.

How Can Heartworm Be Prevented?

There are several medications available that will prevent heartworm infection by killing the microfilaria before they develop into adult heartworms. In most cases, this is a chewable tablet that is administered once monthly. It is safe, easy to administer, and relatively inexpensive.

Should My Dog Be Taking A Heartworm Preventative?

The answer to this question depends on whom you ask. Years ago, the answer given to pet owners in Arizona was, ‘No, we don't have heartworm in Arizona.' But nowadays, we do. Over 30 cases were diagnosed in the year 2000 in Southern Arizona alone. Your dog may never become infected even without taking a preventative, but the risk is there. If you believe that “an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure”, then consider having your dog tested (to make sure there is no current infection) and beginning a preventative medication. This is a safe and effective way to protect your dog from a serious and potentially life-threatening disease.

Otitis externa is an inflammation of the external ear canal that begins at the outside opening of the ear and extends inward to the eardrum. Causes include bacteria, fungi, ear mites, accumulation of wax, thick or matted hair in the ear canal, foxtails or other foreign debris, impaired drainage of the ear, and infections from elsewhere in the body. The ears of dogs (especially those with pendulous ears) and cats are ideal for the growth of bacteria and fungi because they are moist and warm, and contain wax and other debris. The funnel shape of the ear canal effectively traps debris, further complicating treatment of infections.

Important Points in Treatment

1. General anesthesia is often necessary to allow thorough cleansing of the ear canal, to obtain specimens for bacterial cultures, to evaluate the integrity of the eardrum, and for removal of any foreign bodies within the ear canal.
2. The longer the infection has been present, the more difficult it is to clear up. In severe, long-standing infections, surgery may be necessary to correct the problem.
3. To be effective, the medication must contact microorganisms or mites deep in the ear canal. To achieve this contact, the canal must be kept clear of debris, and the medication must be placed deep within the canal. Please call the doctor if you are having trouble treating your pet's ear.
4. Cleansing schedules and techniques and medication dosages as recommended by your veterinarian should be followed exactly.

Notify the Doctor if Any of the Following Occur:

• You cannot medicate your pet's ear(s)
• Your pet continually rubs, paws or scratches its ear(s)
• Your pet shows other signs of illness during treatment
• Your pet's infection recurs after apparent recovery

Ear mites are tiny white parasites that live in the ear canals of dogs and cats. These mites are highly contagious and frequently infest whole litters of puppies and kittens. If more than one dog or cat is present in the home, and one is found to be infected, then all should be carefully examined for ear mites.

Severe ear infections may develop as a result of injury to the ear canal by the mites. A dark, crusty material is found in the affected ear canal. Head shaking and ear scratching are common signs.

Important Points in Treatment

1. In many cases, the ears require a thorough cleaning before treatment. An anesthetic may be necessary in severe cases to allow complete cleaning.
2. The mites can crawl to other parts of your pet's body. Therefore, a topical insecticide may be prescribed, depending upon your pet's age, state of health and severity of the disease.
3. Medication dosage(s) recommended by your veterinarian should be followed closely and never stopped until all the medication is used or unless your veterinarian instructs you otherwise.
4. Activity: If possible, keep your pet separated from pets that are not infected.

Notify the Doctor if Any of the Following Occur:

• Your pet develops a head tilt or loss of balance.
• Your pet vomits or refuses to eat.
• Your pet's general health changes.

Exotic Newcastle disease (END) is a contagious and fatal viral disease affecting all species of birds. Previously known as velogenic viscerotropic Newcastle disease (VVND), END is probably one of the most infectious diseases of poultry in the world. END is so virulent that many birds die without showing any clinical signs. A death rate of almost 100 percent can occur in unvaccinated poultry flocks. Exotic Newcastle can infect and cause death even in vaccinated poultry.

Clinical Signs

END affects the respiratory, nervous, and digestive systems. The incubation period for the disease ranges from 2 to 15 days. An infected bird may exhibit the following signs:

• Respiratory: sneezing, gasping for air, nasal discharge, coughing;
• Digestive: greenish, watery diarrhea;
• Nervous: depression, muscular tremors, drooping wings, twisting of head and neck, circling, complete paralysis;
• Partial to complete drop in egg production;
• Production of thin-shelled eggs;
• Swelling of the tissues around the eyes and in the neck;
• Sudden death;
• Increased death loss in a flock.

How END Spreads

END is spread primarily through direct contact between healthy birds and the bodily discharges of infected birds. The disease is transmitted through infected birds' droppings and secretions from the nose, mouth, and eyes. END spreads rapidly among birds kept in confinement, such as commercially raised chickens.

High concentrations of the END virus are in birds' bodily discharges. Therefore, the disease can be spread easily by mechanical means. Virus-bearing material can be picked up on shoes and clothing and carried from an infected flock to a healthy one. The disease is often spread by vaccination and debeaking crews, manure haulers, rendering truck drivers, feed delivery personnel, poultry buyers, egg service people, and poultry farm owners and employees.

The END virus can survive for several weeks in a warm and humid environment on birds' feathers, manure, and other materials. It can survive indefinitely in frozen material. However, the virus is destroyed rapidly by dehydration and by the ultraviolet rays in sunlight. Smuggled pet birds, especially Amazon parrots from Latin America, pose a great risk of introducing exotic Newcastle into U.S. poultry flocks. Amazon parrots that are carriers of the disease but do not show symptoms are capable of shedding END virus for more than 400 days.

How Poultry Producers Can Help Control and Prevent END

The only way to eradicate END from commercial poultry is by rapidly destroying all infected flocks and imposing strict quarantine and in-depth surveillance programs. Poultry producers should strengthen biosecurity practices to prevent the introduction of the disease to their flocks. Biosecurity is also important to protect backyard and hobby flocks. The following are tips on proper biosecurity practices:

• Permit only essential workers and vehicles on the premises.
• Provide clean clothing and disinfection facilities for employees.
• Clean and disinfect vehicles (including tires and undercarriages) entering and leaving the premises.
• Avoid visiting other poultry operations.
• Maintain an all-in, all-out" philosophy of flock management with a single age flock.
• Control the movement of all poultry and poultry products from farm to farm.
• Do not "skim" mature birds from a flock for sale to a live-poultry market.
• Clean and disinfect poultry houses between each lot of birds.
• Do not keep pet birds on the farm. Do not hire employees who own pet birds.
• Exclude vaccination crews, catching crews, and other service personnel who may have been in contact with other poultry operations within 24 hours.
• Protect flocks from wild birds that may try to nest in poultry houses or feed with domesticated birds.
• Control movements associated with the disposal and handling of bird carcasses, litter, and manure.
• Take diseased birds to a diagnostic laboratory for examination.

How Pet Bird and Backyard Poultry Enthusiasts Can Help Control and Prevent END

END is also a threat to the caged-bird industry and poultry hobbyists. Birds illegally smuggled into the United States are not quarantined and tested by APHIS and therefore may carry the END virus. Owners of pet birds should:

• Request certification from suppliers that birds are legally imported or are of U.S. stock, are healthy prior to shipment, and will be transported in new or thoroughly disinfected containers.
• Maintain records of all sales and shipments of flocks.
• Isolate all newly purchased birds for at least 30 days. Restrict movement of personnel between new and old birds.

Amazon parrots are difficult to raise domestically. Anyone who is offering to sell a large number of young parrots should be suspected of smuggling or purchasing smuggled birds.

U.S. Department of Agriculture's (USDA) Role

To prevent END from being introduced into U.S. poultry flocks, USDA's Animal and Plant Health Inspection Service (APHIS) requires that all imported birds (poultry, pet birds, birds exhibited at zoos, and ratites) be tested and quarantined for diseases before entering the country.

In addition to international import restrictions, APHIS has increased surveillance efforts to detect END if it is accidentally introduced into the United States. APHIS and State veterinarians trained to diagnose foreign animal diseases regularly conduct field investigations of suspicious disease conditions. This surveillance is enhanced by efforts from university personnel, State animal health officials, USDA-accredited veterinarians, and industry representatives.

If END were detected in domestic poultry or pet birds, APHIS would work quickly with its State and industry counterparts to implement aggressive measures, including quarantine, control, and cleanup, to prevent opportunities for the disease to spread.

Reporting Suspicious Cases

Poultry or pet bird owners or veterinarians who suspect a bird may have END should immediately contact State or Federal animal health authorities.

A cat that urinates or defecates outside the litter box is a serious situation. You may find yourself torn between being concerned with what is “wrong” with your cat, and angry at the damage that is being inflicted upon your home. You are not alone,- housesoiling accounts for -50% of the behavioral complaints from cat owners. This handout has been developed to help you sort through some of the issues that may be contributing to your cat's behavior.

Before going any further, please be sure your cat has ‘been to your regular veterinarian and has been examined thoroughly. The medical examination will frequently include a urinalysis or fecal examination (depending on the problem). Based on the age or possible exposure of your cat, your veterinarian may also recommend certain blood tests to better evaluate your cat's health.

Treatment of any related medical conditions takes priority, but do not be discouraged if the behavior persist. There can be a complex interaction between health problems, past issues, learned responses, and existing situations.

The following suggestions may help you identify issues that could be contributing to you cat's behavior. They are not intended to diagnose your particular situation, nor are they intended to take the place of a behavioral consultation. They must be used at your discretion. If they are helpful, please let us know.

Also, be sure to THOROUGHLY clean all affected surfaces. Remember that your cat is attracted to an area that has it's odor; and your cat's nose is much more sensitive than ours. Use commercial odor neutralizers (such as Cat Off), enzyme products (such as Nature's Miracle), or bacteria enzyme combinations (such as Antilcky Poo). Ammonia solutions should be avoided as ammonia compounds are found in urine and may attract the cat.

1. Does your cat urinate while standing (against vertical surfaces)?

Yes.(Go to question 2.)

No. (Go to question 3.)

2. Is your cat an intact tom or a female in heat?

Yes.The reproductive hormones may motivate urine marking. If neutering is acceptable, it may be helpful. However, if the behavior is long-standing (more than several weeks), it may not be enough to return the behavior to normal. Also, some neutered animals will urine mark as well.

No. Urine (and feces) have odors that help a cat mark their particular territory. They are linked to the cat's feeling of security, which, can be affected by a great number of issues (stray animals, other pets and people, changes, aging, etc.). You may benefit from working with a behaviorist at this point.

3. Have there been any changes concerning the litterboxes?

Yes. Go back to the original. Some cats show a strong preference for a particular location of their box, a particular type of box, or a particular type of litter. Although they may have used the “new” for a short time, they eventually seek out a more desirable situation.

No. (Go to question 4.)

4. Do you have at least one litter box for every cat in the household plus one extra litterbox?

Yes. (Go to question 5)

No. Try adding the appropriate number of boxes. This can be difficult in homes with large number of cats, but these homes also have a higher incidence of elimination problems so it's probably worth the try.

5. Is the litter scooped daily, and completely changed every one to two weeks depending on the litter type? The box should be thoroughly cleaned at this time also, but not with products that leave a strong disinfectant odor?

Yes. (Go on to question 6)

No. Some cats refuse to use a litter box that is soiled at all. (This is where a second box is helpful). And where some cats prefer a community box, another avoids a box that has the scent of another cat.

6. Have you tried various litter types?

Yes. (Go on to question 7.)

No. This allows you to do a little experimenting. (Do continue to keep at least one box with the “old, familiar” litter available.) Set up a few different boxes with various types of litter; try clumpable vs. nonclumpable, scented vs. nonscented, garden dirt or sand (These can be put on top of regular litter if the cat prefers them.), or various textured wood, paper, or corncob litters. In general, most cats seem to prefer unscented litters of a soft, fine-grained texture. But the bottom-line is that your cat is an individual, choose the litter that he likes.

7. Similarly, have you tried different litter boxes?

Yes. (Go on to question 8.)

No. Some cats have a strong preference for uncovered boxes. Odors do not accumulate as much, and they don't feel as trapped with only a single escape door (Those can be improved by cutting a second opening on the other side.) Other cats like the privacy of their covered box. Older cats may find it difficult to crawl into a box with higher sides. And bigger cats may feel squeezed in a regular size box. Experiment with lowsided vs. high-sided boxes, covered vs. uncovered boxes, regular size vs. sweater box size. But do remember to keep one “ old, familiar” box available too.

8. Are the litterboxes in safe, quiet locations that allow for a quick escape route if startled?

Yes. (Go on to “Additional Help”.)

No. Although our favorite location for a litterbox may be next to the dryer in the laundry room, the tumbling clothes may keep your cat from using the box at that time. And if he starts using another spot that he finds is always quiet and calm, he may decide to stay with that alternate spot. Also hallways with traffic, small bathrooms with only one escape route (that another pet sits in wait at), and small closets may or may not work for your pet. Set up some boxes in a variety of locations and see which one your cat prefers. If your cat is eliminating in just one location, put a box there. Once he begins to use that box, you can gradually (a few inches a day) move it to a more desirable location.

Additional Help

If these suggestions haven't helped your cat's elimination problem, don't lose' heart. As mentioned, this problem can be an interaction of many factors. At this point, it may be helpful for you to work with a behaviorist to sort through these issues. Interactions with other pets, people, stray animals, and changes in your cat's environment may weigh ,heavily on his behavior. Also, long-standing issues may have a strong learned component which is more difficult to adjust. In some situations, medications can be used to help your cat make these changes.

This handout was prepared by Dr. Gail Stevenson of Best Behavior, P.C. Further information about pet behavior counseling can be obtained by calling (520) 825-3111.

IN THE WILD

Sonoran Desert Tortoises inhabit The Sonoran and Mohave Deserts of Nevada, California, Arizona and Mexico. In the wild, these tortoises can live to be 80-100 years of age. They are herbivores that spend 95% of their lives in burrows. They feed on native grasses, plants, wildflowers, cacti and cacti fruit, which is where they obtain most of their water. During periods of drought, these tortoises will dig shallow basins in the dirt and await rainfall. Tortoises have been known to survive a year or more in the wild without water. The main predators of juvenile tortoises in the area are ravens, coyotes, roadrunners, kit foxes, badgers and Gila monsters (Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum, www.desertmuseum.org). Sonoran Desert Tortoises are listed by The U.S. Fish and Wildlife service as a threatened species. It is illegal to touch, harm or remove Sonoran Desert Tortoises from the wild. Desert tortoises can be legally adopted from many organizations through the Southwestern United States. Contact the Arizona Sonora Desert Museum for more info regarding desert tortoise adoption.

IN CAPTIVITY

Sunlight, proper diet and adequate space are essential to the health and appetite of tortoises; therefore, it is strongly recommended to house them outdoors when in their native area. When being housed outdoors, adequate heat, sunlight and humidity is provided naturally. An enclosure should be made to keep tortoises safe. An enclosure should be about 120 square feet per 1 male or 3 females (www.gf.az.state.Us), The fencing surrounding the enclosure should be buried 8-12 inches to prevent a digging tortoise from escaping. Hardware cloth fencing made with a metal frame works well because the square holes in the fencing are too small for tortoises to get their legs and heads stuck in. Hardware cloth is sold in a variety of sizes so select the one that is appropriate for your tortoises size. The smaller the tortoise, the smaller the squares need to be. There are many native plants that can be grown in the enclosure that tortoises will eat. Be sure to avoid using any herbicides, pesticides or other dangerous chemicals in or around the tortoise enclosure.

When they must be kept indoors (do not house indoors indefinitely), it is essential to provide tortoises with full spectrum lighting. Full spectrum lighting (light containing both UVA and UVB) is necessary to keep desert tortoises healthy. This type of lighting stimulates appetite and promotes vitamin D3 synthesis. Full spectrum lights are available at most pet stores and are usually in the form of a fluorescent bulb. These bulbs should be on for 12 hours during the day, and off at night. Replace the UV bulb every 6 months to ensure maximum UV output. The temperature in an indoor enclosure -should range from 92-98 degrees on the warm side of the enclosure and 80-85 degrees on the cool side of the enclosure. Allow temperature to drop about 5 degrees at night. It is important to have warm and cool sides to an enclosure so the tortoise can the thermoregulate. A thermometer is necessary to monitor temperature in the enclosure. A digital thermometer that has a probe on it works best so the temperature at both ends of the enclosure can be monitored. Care should be taken to see that desert tortoises are kept safe in captivity. Tortoises CANNOT swim, and will easily drown if not kept away from swimming pools. Toxic landscape should be removed from the area (list of toxic plants attached), and keep in mind that dogs are tortoises' number one predator in captivity.

DIET

The majority of this herbivore's diet in captivity consists of native grasses and leafy greens. These tortoises should be allowed to graze freely on native weeds and grasses. They can also be offered turnip, mustard, and collard greens as well as endive, escarole, alfalfa hay and carrots. Desert tortoises also feed on dichondra, mulberry leaves as well as dandelion and hibiscus flowers and leaves. Desert tortoises can be offered fruit from cacti when it is in season. Avoid broccoli, cauliflower, bananas, avocados, and foods containing citrus including tomatoes in excessive amounts. Food should be dusted with a quality reptile herbivore vitamin 3-4 times a week. Juveniles should be fed daily and adults can be offered food 3-4 times a week. Do not feed tortoises directly on the dirt; instead, use a shallow dish to prevent them from ingesting dirt and rocks. An upside down Frisbee works well because it is shallow enough for them to eat from, and it can be used as a water bowl or to catch rainfall for drinking or soaking. Always have fresh water available.

REPRODUCTION

Desert tortoises reach maturity around 10-15 years of age. Males have larger tails, longer and more curved -gular projections, and a concave plastron (bottom of shell). Mature males that are territorial may fight, and should not be housed together. Females typically lay their eggs between June and August. If fertile., the eggs should hatch within 85-115 days. Provided the hatchlings are healthy and well protected,, they can hibernate during their first winter.

WINTER CARE

Desert tortoises usually hibernate from October to March, depending on the weather. Healthy tortoises that have eaten well during the spring and summer will have enough fat reserve to last throughout the winter. All healthy tortoises should hibernate.

Tortoises will usually dig their own burrow where they will hibernate until Spring. If they do not make their own burrow, one will need to be made for them. The elevation of the burrow should be slightly raised to prevent flooding. Make the burrow just big enough for the tortoise to turn around. Make three sides out of wood or brick and cover the top with plywood. Cover the entire enclosure, except the opening, with dirt for insulation. The tortoise should seek refuge in the burrow within a few days. The opening should be covered with a tarp or some loose vegetation, as long as the tortoise is able to easily exit the burrow if desired.

All tortoises should get a pre and post hibernation veterinary examination. Tortoises that are not in optimal health should not be allowed to hibernate and should be seen by a veterinarian.

Ericka Hughes, CVT

Alfalfa Plant (Not Hay) American Coffee Berry Tree Bloodroot Bouncing Bet Bull Nettle Bracken Brake Fern Burning Bush Buttercup Carelessweed Castor Bean Clovers Cocklebur Creeping Charlie Crown Of Thorns Curly Dock Daffodil Delphinium Devils Trumpet Dogbane Dutchman's Breeches Elderberry English Ivy Ergot Fireweed Foxglove Ground Ivy Hemlock, Poison And Water Hemp Horse Chestnut/blackeyes Horse Nettle Horsetails Hyacinth Hydrangea Ivy English, Ground And Poison Jack-in-the-pulpit Jamestown Weed Japanese Yew Jerusalem Cherry Jimson Weed

Kentucky Coffee Tree Kentucky Mahogany Tree Klamath Weed Lamb's Quarter Lantana Larkspur Lily Of The Valley Lupine Mad Apple Maple, Red May Apple Milkweed Mint, Purple Nicker Tree Nightshade Oleander Ohio Buckeye Philodendron Pigweed Poison Hemlock Poison Ivy Poke Purple Mint Redroot Rhododendron Rhubarb Swirrelcorn Staggerweed St. Johnswort Stinkweed Stump Tree Sudan Grass Summer Cypress